SHOWALL FUN PRANKS HIGH VOLTAGE LAZARUS-64 PHOTOGRAPHY SPY GADGETS VIDEO GAME
Figure 2 - The datasheet for a typical RC5 remote control decoder module
Figure 2 - The datasheet for a typical RC5 remote control decoder module

In my version of the Remote Control Hijacker, I used the Sharp GP1UM26X decoder module, as I had a few of them that were salvaged from old DVD players and VCRs. If you are going to salvage your decoder module, make sure to take a look on the board before unsoldering so you can identify the power and ground connections as most OEM modules will have no markings. The ground wire will be easy to locate, but you may have to do a bit of tracing to identify the signal pin. If you have to take a "wild guess", then just connect the unit to a 3 volt coin cell with a piezo buzzer and try random combinations until you hear a "blip-blip-blip" on the buzzer when you aim a remote control at the device and press a button. A coin cell has very low amperage, so it will not kill the module if you hook it up completely reversed while "brute force" hacking to find the pinout.



Figure 3 - The pulses are sent to the appliance using an infrared LED
Figure 3 - The pulses are sent to the appliance using an infrared LED

As for the playback portion of this project, it will utilize the same exact system that is found in the remote control, using an infrared LED to send out the modulated pulse stream. You can use practically any type or number of infrared LED, as the decoder module is highly sensitive to the modulated pulse stream. In my testing, it was even found that visible LEDs would work! You only need a single infrared LED unless you plan to wreak havoc on the entire neighborhood or the TVs in a large area, but I will leave that mod up to you. A single infrared LED will have more than enough reach to control any TV or video machine in a living room, and since stealth is the goal, size matters.

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